About Me
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
Last days in Turkey!
Well didn't keep up with the blog as well as I would have liked but I will try to put some thoughts and pictures up when I am back home for a couple of days. The weather is finally warming up as I am leaving haha. It was a great experience and I'm so glad I did it and had the opportunity to travel a bit in Europe and to other parts of Turkey. I feel closer to the city than I realized as I met a couple just visiting and was able to tell them little facts and tidbits and give them my personal perspectives- I feel like a local almost :) I am a bit sad to leave although I'm ready for the next chapter of my life and so excited for my friend's Caribbean wedding! Less than one week and I will be there- sun, beach, rum, good friends what more could I ask for?
Friday, March 20, 2009
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Between trips...February
After Austria and Greece, the weather was pretty dreary so I mostly rested up from my trip and lounged around the house. I look forward to Tuesdays bc there's a funny soap opera we watch called Canim Aılem- nice cuz there's no sex, drugs, violence, it's just funny and I can usually make out what is going on- otherwise the parents are happy to summarize. Wednesday saw Pride and Glory- liked it. Funny bc only like 4 people in theater- everyone else is at their job or school I suppose. The ticket guy didn't understand me even though I have had him before and was clearly saying one ticket for this movie at this time in this seat. This nice lady behind helped clear things up.
The building manager is supposed to come twice a day to see if you need anything and I swear when we do, he never comes! And it's only once a day I think too. So sometimes I pop out around the corner to get some bread or yogurt- nice that it's so close and cheap too. The bread here is good and the stuff we usually get is maybe a bit over a dollar- would totally get fresh bread every day at home if that was the case.
Went to Emre's parents one night and some guy was there that ended up being his cousin (I've met anothe girl cousin who's an industrial chemist but got introduced that time). He knew English but didn't say anything to me until the night was almost over haha. Saw Bride Wars on Valentine's day didn't even realize- I liked it and made me think of my friend Molly's wedding coming up. I've never been to one before- I hope I don't cry too much!! It was the most crowed I've ever seen! I walked all the way back which didn't take too long (maybe 40 min) and picked up some snacks at the store including a pomegranate! First time ever buying one. Had some roasted chestnuts too (haha can't help but think of the song and in the street they do roast them over an open fire for you to buy!).
Went shopping one day over the weekend with Özlem and Mert. The family is moving so she wanted to pick up some new housey things which was fun and we also stopped by Sephora (I love it!). It was a huge mall relatively new called Palladium. Lots of places sell just corn kernals heated up mixed with various seasonings- I guess like our corn on the cob but neater. I've had homemade stuff with some salt and pepper and spice which is good and a hint of butteryness mmm. We went to her friend Tuba's for dinner- Tuba and her husband used to go to school in Boston! He doesn't sound Turkish at all when he speaks English (she a little bit but him not at all). They are expecting a daughter soon and he made some chocolates for the ocassion for us to try before the big day- reallly good! Their excitement and happiness for the baby and cute home and homey things make me look forward to having all that one day...but not yet! Mert picked up the nickname Stef for me which was cute haha. I remember when my cousin Alana found out about nicknames too- it was so cute she was so excited/proud to know it and use it.
Decided on a nicer day to go to Dolmabahçe Palace over on the European side near Beşiktaş. Stopped by this art gallery which had a good variety of topics and mediums- photographs, modern art, Turkish landscapes, people, flowers, animals. I think I was the only one in there but it was nice to slowly walk around and look up close without other people around. Didn't have to pay which was cool. The entrance to Dolmabahçe is way on the other side of the ferry terminal even though you can see the freaking building right there. Last time when I wanted to go I should have turned right instead of left- now I know! There's a big clock tower that's being restored. Had to go with a group- paid for both main area and harem and to use my own camera! Sheesh. I liked Topkapı Palace better because I felt more informed, like I got to see more for my money, and it was just more interesting in my opinion. Dolmabahçe was still nice but remined me of a smaller Versailles or something. The harem especially- the lady just kept saying ok we'll walk this way then back this way and then that way ok go ahead. There was a crystal pavilion and clock museum there too but I didn't have time nor knew if it woudl even be worth seeing. The ferry I took back was uber nice- 3 stories, really new and looked like newer technology, TVs, English on signs.
Went over to Taksim one day for some shopping (was on a mission to find cute flat black boots that fit and are reasonably priced but haven't and gave up). Walked down Flower Passage with the fish markets and restaurants (but obviously not busy at the time- gets really crowded at night and all lit up). Went to an artsy bar with bands with Emre's cousin Emir. He knows the bar tender and either didn't have to pay or pay much and picked up the tab which was nice. I had said I love tequila so he got some for us- but not limes just lemons. The crowd was young and modern and the band played a lot of English cover songs which was cool- the singer didn't sound Turkish at all when he sang, weird how that is with accents. They played one or two Turkish songs too. We took off maybe 1ish and got some food near the house (still open I love that- I think all the food places near the house were actually)- baked/fried mussely rice things and fried chicken bits. We parted ways after a good night of music and fried foods :)
Was pretty sore from walking so much the day before- you would think I would be in better shape walking around all the time but I guess since it's been cold and drizzley I haven't that much lately? Went back to the Palladium mall one day and got some sushi! It was ok but got charged for some nuts they brought out and coffee I didn't want?? Whatevs at least I got a free brownie sample from a coffee place- I should have just eaten there! I actually also went to pick up something one of the stores didn't pack for us last time we were there. Özlem had talked to them on the phone about it and after some confusion and going to the store while I was at the mall a couple of times, I called Emre to talk to them and basically they didn't want to give it to us even though they didn't pack it in our shopping bag! Lame.
My friend has been searching for an orange dress for our friend's wedding and I saw so many here in Turkey (none in Vienna!). I sent her some pics and went to pick it up- I hope she likes it and it fits!! But before that decided to go to Istanbul Modern since it was in the area and a drizzley day. Thought I could walk along the boardwalk but it was blocked and walked in the right direction but was getting wet so jumped in a taxi (although the guy didn't know what Istanbul Modern was and I couldn't remember the Turkish for it so we drove until I saw it and yelled out OK). Passed this HUGE restaurant all lit up and somewhat crowded that took up the entire building's first floor- I wonder if it is any good. The waiters are all dressed up too. The art museum is in an old warehouse. Checked my coat and started- about 2 hours before it closed but luckily only a couple of floors and wings- it was easy to navigate. I liked the modern paintings on the top floor from Turkish artists a bit more than the equestrian photos and sketches downstairs, although the main thing going on is shadows and silhouettes which was interesting (some shadow puppet and just puppet movies were being shown and only caught a bit but would like to watch them in full some time). I especially like the paintings with bright bold colors and the huge ones that look different close up and afar. There were some statues too here and there and windows with views of the water and historical side- really nice location and they have seats across the windows to just take it in. There's a library downstairs too but I think you have to be a student or researcher to use- too bad I bet they have some interesting art books. The are right by the library is decorated with books hanging from the ceiling. Wanted to get some postcards at the store but they didn't have any. Decided to splurge and eat at the cafe there (heard it was good). Got a table near a window (too bad it was rainy and overcast- I bet it's so nice in the summer and they have an area outside too). Too bad also my camera doesn't take the greatest night pics- I had plenty of shots in mind but didn't try to get. Ordered seafood soup and mushroom risotto but got a minestrone and some beef salad- didn't change the soup but def wanted to change the main order. I even pointed at the menu at the items I wanted and the waiter was looking! I must just have or be bad luck or something when it comes to ordering at restaurants. The risotto was very good though and worth the hassle- so full when I left. I got there around 5 and read but then close to 7 the lights were dimmed, candles lit so I had to stop. I actually had wanted to go get my coat bc the museum closes at 6 but they were like you can get it after it's ok- wellll I had to go OUT into the cold rainy weather to the security check I went through for them to go get my coat for me! Good thing it wasn't freezing or pouring but I knew I should have gotten it before! Walked a bit to get to Tünel up to Beyoğlu- so many Europeans on the tram felt like I was in Europe and not Turkey but guess where we were going is touristy. Went to Mango for the dress and the parents called saying they may go out tonight so I headed back- but they ended up not. The old granny on the ferry looked super tradional but was texting haha! The night ride on the ferry is really pretty and much calmer and quieter than the day ones. Other people on my dolmuş wanted to go to Kızıltoprak too- I see people getting out around here all the time but hadn't had someone on the same ride before.
A small film festival (not the BIG one they have in the spring/summer) is going on. I was planning on seeing Slumdog Millionaire one day but the tickets were sold out so Emre helped me buy them online for another day. My plan was to see one movie on the European side and another one closer to our house- but I ended up seeing both near us right after the other, Wendy & Lucy first and then Slumdog. Got some snacks at the other Migros that's bigger pretty much under Fenerbahçe stadium. This old guy kept switching lanes with his 2 bottles of raki and when a cashier opened a lane for me, he jumped before me and took FOREVER paying and bagging. Lindsey and I noticed Europeans have no sense of lines- at the passport check coming into Turkey from Vienna this old guy totally cut in front of me even though I was clearly in front of him but he was talking to people in front of me, at a bathroom in Athens this older lady totally cut in front of me as I was trying to go in and I said something but she still went in! Argh. So I found the theater- really nice like 5 story building, the top theaters are larger and for special events but regular movies are shown on the other 10 or so screens. I picked up my Slumdog ticket but there was some confusion bc it was in Emre's name but my CC info (his online ticket account). Luckily this couple knew English and explained he was the family I was staying with. I bought the Wendy and Lucy ticket at a self-server kiosk. Got popcorn and headed up- seats comfy, clearly labelled and my seat was right in the middle but sadly I didn't like the movie that much. Came down and read/lounged (they have lounging areas which was nice) a bit before Slumdog which was crowed- my seats much higher up and to the side. Some art outside of that theater so I looked at those too. I liked the movie but unfortunately the Hindi parts were still with Turkish sub-titles so I wasn't sure what the kids were saying there! I'll just have to watch it again with English ones. So many people were leaving so I thought of walking down the other escalator- people before me had the same idea but right before I got to the end it started going and I had to jump to get off- almost fell and people gasped! Whew but a little embarassed. Found a dolmuş after several minutes (actually it found me by honking) and headed home.
Sometime random guys say something in Chinese or Japanese or something to me- it gets annoying. But an old lady said something to me at the store as I was looking at this sesame paste and I wished I knew what she was saying! I usually know at the store what the cashiers say- like how many simits or something which is cool. The computer was out for what was supposed to be a few days turned into a few weeks and I had only found an internet cafe after the first week and a half near our house- good thing it's cheap! The weather was pretty cold in general for February and snowed sometimes a little or on the other side.
Also went to the Optimum Outlets and glad I did bc it had outlet prices! Wish I went sooner- saw more orange dresses too!! Almost bought some leather gloves but they were tight and some Nine West black pumps but the right shoe on display was a little loose. Turkey has some pretty good stores (not sure if they're exclusively Turkish or more European). Decided to get some Chinese food to go but had a hard time saying to go until I said car. I also said I wanted rice and not noodles but oh well. They do have free shuttles to Palladium and Optimum near our house I found out but no reason to go again- but I know where they pick you up now.
Decided the last weekend of February to do some souvenir shopping and also ended up getting a rug for myself! The guy was really nice and not typical Turkish sales guy. Actually was going to CA for a show, even Santa Barbara! Got a great deal and was interesting to hear about the designs- butterfly:independence, hand clasped:togetherness, tents:neighborly and he talked about the colors too but I forgot. Takes a lady about 3 weeks to make one- wool and naturally dyed flat woven rug. So excited bc I wanted one but thought they would be huge. Had some tea and chatted a little. His worker was learning English and from Afganistan- looked Asiany. Saw the Hippodrome, with something from the Temple of Apollo at Delphi which I've also seen :) I could overhear these guys trying to talk to me and discussing if I was from Spain bc I had my Espana bag and some other Turkish guy asked in English if I was Turkish and from Anatolya or something (you think he would ask in Turkish if he really thought I was Turkish right?). One guy was useful (so happens to sell rugs too) when I was near some gazeboy thing in the Hippodrome- he explained it was a gift from the Germans. I headed to the Suleiman complex which was way larger than I knew. I tried to see the tomb of him and his wife Roxelana but this day and the other day I went closed even though the sign showed when it was open and I was there within those times! Met this nice guy who was in the area and told me a bit about it (he actually does private tours for work right now). We saw this group of young religious guys come and pray at someone's tomb who I was informed the same sect of Islam as they are. We met his friend using the WC and all walked around together- neither had a plan but to wander today (well my shopping was finished and they just go exploring the city even though they live there- pretty cool!). We walked through the complex and saw some sunken tea gardens and went to look at a restaurant housed in a courtyard and beautiful domed room (they have been there before to eat). We walked through this restoration/beautificaton area (pretty ghetto and old)- kids were playing in trash and crumbling or destroyed buildings. The new houses the government is working on remind me of San Francisco. We found the cafe they were looking for overlooking the Golden Horn- really pretty- and got some tea and chatted more. We parted ways at the Spice Bazaar but somehow ran into each other by the ferries! I wasn't sure what to do tonight and they were heading to Taksim- I wanted to head home first and drop things off and freshen up and all that so we parted again. Went home, rested a bit, went back out- Tünel was closed so I took a taxi that seemed to take a million back streets. Met them at the Marmara hotel- looks really nice and is like a 5 star hotel. Some of the bars we went into were super cute but small and had no seats so we ended up at one that was a bit smokey (neither of them smoke) but spacious. Had some beer and chatted- really low key and had some interesting conversation. Earlier in the day I feel like it was more introductory topics- where are you from, what are you doing, etc. but we got to talking about various topics- politics, religion, anthropology- which was refreshing. They showed me some places nearby like Babylon which are quite popular- so many places to go in that area! Took the metro to get closer to the dolmuşes- it is new and they had never gone on it either. It went so far down and was pretty empty- well at least it was still running with all the descending. They walked me to the dolmuşes back to this side and although I was confued on this part made sure I was on the one that was going seaside...oh well but that was nice of them and to treat me to the tea and beer. It turned out to be a dry day and night and good company too! Oh yeah just one dolmuş back so much easier than taxi, ferry, dolmuş, and/or tons of walking! And it wasn't very expensive either but I swear I never see dolmuşes by our house going to Taksim, I only see them coming back towards Bostanci. Good bye February, hello March!
The building manager is supposed to come twice a day to see if you need anything and I swear when we do, he never comes! And it's only once a day I think too. So sometimes I pop out around the corner to get some bread or yogurt- nice that it's so close and cheap too. The bread here is good and the stuff we usually get is maybe a bit over a dollar- would totally get fresh bread every day at home if that was the case.
Went to Emre's parents one night and some guy was there that ended up being his cousin (I've met anothe girl cousin who's an industrial chemist but got introduced that time). He knew English but didn't say anything to me until the night was almost over haha. Saw Bride Wars on Valentine's day didn't even realize- I liked it and made me think of my friend Molly's wedding coming up. I've never been to one before- I hope I don't cry too much!! It was the most crowed I've ever seen! I walked all the way back which didn't take too long (maybe 40 min) and picked up some snacks at the store including a pomegranate! First time ever buying one. Had some roasted chestnuts too (haha can't help but think of the song and in the street they do roast them over an open fire for you to buy!).
Went shopping one day over the weekend with Özlem and Mert. The family is moving so she wanted to pick up some new housey things which was fun and we also stopped by Sephora (I love it!). It was a huge mall relatively new called Palladium. Lots of places sell just corn kernals heated up mixed with various seasonings- I guess like our corn on the cob but neater. I've had homemade stuff with some salt and pepper and spice which is good and a hint of butteryness mmm. We went to her friend Tuba's for dinner- Tuba and her husband used to go to school in Boston! He doesn't sound Turkish at all when he speaks English (she a little bit but him not at all). They are expecting a daughter soon and he made some chocolates for the ocassion for us to try before the big day- reallly good! Their excitement and happiness for the baby and cute home and homey things make me look forward to having all that one day...but not yet! Mert picked up the nickname Stef for me which was cute haha. I remember when my cousin Alana found out about nicknames too- it was so cute she was so excited/proud to know it and use it.
Decided on a nicer day to go to Dolmabahçe Palace over on the European side near Beşiktaş. Stopped by this art gallery which had a good variety of topics and mediums- photographs, modern art, Turkish landscapes, people, flowers, animals. I think I was the only one in there but it was nice to slowly walk around and look up close without other people around. Didn't have to pay which was cool. The entrance to Dolmabahçe is way on the other side of the ferry terminal even though you can see the freaking building right there. Last time when I wanted to go I should have turned right instead of left- now I know! There's a big clock tower that's being restored. Had to go with a group- paid for both main area and harem and to use my own camera! Sheesh. I liked Topkapı Palace better because I felt more informed, like I got to see more for my money, and it was just more interesting in my opinion. Dolmabahçe was still nice but remined me of a smaller Versailles or something. The harem especially- the lady just kept saying ok we'll walk this way then back this way and then that way ok go ahead. There was a crystal pavilion and clock museum there too but I didn't have time nor knew if it woudl even be worth seeing. The ferry I took back was uber nice- 3 stories, really new and looked like newer technology, TVs, English on signs.
Went over to Taksim one day for some shopping (was on a mission to find cute flat black boots that fit and are reasonably priced but haven't and gave up). Walked down Flower Passage with the fish markets and restaurants (but obviously not busy at the time- gets really crowded at night and all lit up). Went to an artsy bar with bands with Emre's cousin Emir. He knows the bar tender and either didn't have to pay or pay much and picked up the tab which was nice. I had said I love tequila so he got some for us- but not limes just lemons. The crowd was young and modern and the band played a lot of English cover songs which was cool- the singer didn't sound Turkish at all when he sang, weird how that is with accents. They played one or two Turkish songs too. We took off maybe 1ish and got some food near the house (still open I love that- I think all the food places near the house were actually)- baked/fried mussely rice things and fried chicken bits. We parted ways after a good night of music and fried foods :)
Was pretty sore from walking so much the day before- you would think I would be in better shape walking around all the time but I guess since it's been cold and drizzley I haven't that much lately? Went back to the Palladium mall one day and got some sushi! It was ok but got charged for some nuts they brought out and coffee I didn't want?? Whatevs at least I got a free brownie sample from a coffee place- I should have just eaten there! I actually also went to pick up something one of the stores didn't pack for us last time we were there. Özlem had talked to them on the phone about it and after some confusion and going to the store while I was at the mall a couple of times, I called Emre to talk to them and basically they didn't want to give it to us even though they didn't pack it in our shopping bag! Lame.
My friend has been searching for an orange dress for our friend's wedding and I saw so many here in Turkey (none in Vienna!). I sent her some pics and went to pick it up- I hope she likes it and it fits!! But before that decided to go to Istanbul Modern since it was in the area and a drizzley day. Thought I could walk along the boardwalk but it was blocked and walked in the right direction but was getting wet so jumped in a taxi (although the guy didn't know what Istanbul Modern was and I couldn't remember the Turkish for it so we drove until I saw it and yelled out OK). Passed this HUGE restaurant all lit up and somewhat crowded that took up the entire building's first floor- I wonder if it is any good. The waiters are all dressed up too. The art museum is in an old warehouse. Checked my coat and started- about 2 hours before it closed but luckily only a couple of floors and wings- it was easy to navigate. I liked the modern paintings on the top floor from Turkish artists a bit more than the equestrian photos and sketches downstairs, although the main thing going on is shadows and silhouettes which was interesting (some shadow puppet and just puppet movies were being shown and only caught a bit but would like to watch them in full some time). I especially like the paintings with bright bold colors and the huge ones that look different close up and afar. There were some statues too here and there and windows with views of the water and historical side- really nice location and they have seats across the windows to just take it in. There's a library downstairs too but I think you have to be a student or researcher to use- too bad I bet they have some interesting art books. The are right by the library is decorated with books hanging from the ceiling. Wanted to get some postcards at the store but they didn't have any. Decided to splurge and eat at the cafe there (heard it was good). Got a table near a window (too bad it was rainy and overcast- I bet it's so nice in the summer and they have an area outside too). Too bad also my camera doesn't take the greatest night pics- I had plenty of shots in mind but didn't try to get. Ordered seafood soup and mushroom risotto but got a minestrone and some beef salad- didn't change the soup but def wanted to change the main order. I even pointed at the menu at the items I wanted and the waiter was looking! I must just have or be bad luck or something when it comes to ordering at restaurants. The risotto was very good though and worth the hassle- so full when I left. I got there around 5 and read but then close to 7 the lights were dimmed, candles lit so I had to stop. I actually had wanted to go get my coat bc the museum closes at 6 but they were like you can get it after it's ok- wellll I had to go OUT into the cold rainy weather to the security check I went through for them to go get my coat for me! Good thing it wasn't freezing or pouring but I knew I should have gotten it before! Walked a bit to get to Tünel up to Beyoğlu- so many Europeans on the tram felt like I was in Europe and not Turkey but guess where we were going is touristy. Went to Mango for the dress and the parents called saying they may go out tonight so I headed back- but they ended up not. The old granny on the ferry looked super tradional but was texting haha! The night ride on the ferry is really pretty and much calmer and quieter than the day ones. Other people on my dolmuş wanted to go to Kızıltoprak too- I see people getting out around here all the time but hadn't had someone on the same ride before.
A small film festival (not the BIG one they have in the spring/summer) is going on. I was planning on seeing Slumdog Millionaire one day but the tickets were sold out so Emre helped me buy them online for another day. My plan was to see one movie on the European side and another one closer to our house- but I ended up seeing both near us right after the other, Wendy & Lucy first and then Slumdog. Got some snacks at the other Migros that's bigger pretty much under Fenerbahçe stadium. This old guy kept switching lanes with his 2 bottles of raki and when a cashier opened a lane for me, he jumped before me and took FOREVER paying and bagging. Lindsey and I noticed Europeans have no sense of lines- at the passport check coming into Turkey from Vienna this old guy totally cut in front of me even though I was clearly in front of him but he was talking to people in front of me, at a bathroom in Athens this older lady totally cut in front of me as I was trying to go in and I said something but she still went in! Argh. So I found the theater- really nice like 5 story building, the top theaters are larger and for special events but regular movies are shown on the other 10 or so screens. I picked up my Slumdog ticket but there was some confusion bc it was in Emre's name but my CC info (his online ticket account). Luckily this couple knew English and explained he was the family I was staying with. I bought the Wendy and Lucy ticket at a self-server kiosk. Got popcorn and headed up- seats comfy, clearly labelled and my seat was right in the middle but sadly I didn't like the movie that much. Came down and read/lounged (they have lounging areas which was nice) a bit before Slumdog which was crowed- my seats much higher up and to the side. Some art outside of that theater so I looked at those too. I liked the movie but unfortunately the Hindi parts were still with Turkish sub-titles so I wasn't sure what the kids were saying there! I'll just have to watch it again with English ones. So many people were leaving so I thought of walking down the other escalator- people before me had the same idea but right before I got to the end it started going and I had to jump to get off- almost fell and people gasped! Whew but a little embarassed. Found a dolmuş after several minutes (actually it found me by honking) and headed home.
Sometime random guys say something in Chinese or Japanese or something to me- it gets annoying. But an old lady said something to me at the store as I was looking at this sesame paste and I wished I knew what she was saying! I usually know at the store what the cashiers say- like how many simits or something which is cool. The computer was out for what was supposed to be a few days turned into a few weeks and I had only found an internet cafe after the first week and a half near our house- good thing it's cheap! The weather was pretty cold in general for February and snowed sometimes a little or on the other side.
Also went to the Optimum Outlets and glad I did bc it had outlet prices! Wish I went sooner- saw more orange dresses too!! Almost bought some leather gloves but they were tight and some Nine West black pumps but the right shoe on display was a little loose. Turkey has some pretty good stores (not sure if they're exclusively Turkish or more European). Decided to get some Chinese food to go but had a hard time saying to go until I said car. I also said I wanted rice and not noodles but oh well. They do have free shuttles to Palladium and Optimum near our house I found out but no reason to go again- but I know where they pick you up now.
Decided the last weekend of February to do some souvenir shopping and also ended up getting a rug for myself! The guy was really nice and not typical Turkish sales guy. Actually was going to CA for a show, even Santa Barbara! Got a great deal and was interesting to hear about the designs- butterfly:independence, hand clasped:togetherness, tents:neighborly and he talked about the colors too but I forgot. Takes a lady about 3 weeks to make one- wool and naturally dyed flat woven rug. So excited bc I wanted one but thought they would be huge. Had some tea and chatted a little. His worker was learning English and from Afganistan- looked Asiany. Saw the Hippodrome, with something from the Temple of Apollo at Delphi which I've also seen :) I could overhear these guys trying to talk to me and discussing if I was from Spain bc I had my Espana bag and some other Turkish guy asked in English if I was Turkish and from Anatolya or something (you think he would ask in Turkish if he really thought I was Turkish right?). One guy was useful (so happens to sell rugs too) when I was near some gazeboy thing in the Hippodrome- he explained it was a gift from the Germans. I headed to the Suleiman complex which was way larger than I knew. I tried to see the tomb of him and his wife Roxelana but this day and the other day I went closed even though the sign showed when it was open and I was there within those times! Met this nice guy who was in the area and told me a bit about it (he actually does private tours for work right now). We saw this group of young religious guys come and pray at someone's tomb who I was informed the same sect of Islam as they are. We met his friend using the WC and all walked around together- neither had a plan but to wander today (well my shopping was finished and they just go exploring the city even though they live there- pretty cool!). We walked through the complex and saw some sunken tea gardens and went to look at a restaurant housed in a courtyard and beautiful domed room (they have been there before to eat). We walked through this restoration/beautificaton area (pretty ghetto and old)- kids were playing in trash and crumbling or destroyed buildings. The new houses the government is working on remind me of San Francisco. We found the cafe they were looking for overlooking the Golden Horn- really pretty- and got some tea and chatted more. We parted ways at the Spice Bazaar but somehow ran into each other by the ferries! I wasn't sure what to do tonight and they were heading to Taksim- I wanted to head home first and drop things off and freshen up and all that so we parted again. Went home, rested a bit, went back out- Tünel was closed so I took a taxi that seemed to take a million back streets. Met them at the Marmara hotel- looks really nice and is like a 5 star hotel. Some of the bars we went into were super cute but small and had no seats so we ended up at one that was a bit smokey (neither of them smoke) but spacious. Had some beer and chatted- really low key and had some interesting conversation. Earlier in the day I feel like it was more introductory topics- where are you from, what are you doing, etc. but we got to talking about various topics- politics, religion, anthropology- which was refreshing. They showed me some places nearby like Babylon which are quite popular- so many places to go in that area! Took the metro to get closer to the dolmuşes- it is new and they had never gone on it either. It went so far down and was pretty empty- well at least it was still running with all the descending. They walked me to the dolmuşes back to this side and although I was confued on this part made sure I was on the one that was going seaside...oh well but that was nice of them and to treat me to the tea and beer. It turned out to be a dry day and night and good company too! Oh yeah just one dolmuş back so much easier than taxi, ferry, dolmuş, and/or tons of walking! And it wasn't very expensive either but I swear I never see dolmuşes by our house going to Taksim, I only see them coming back towards Bostanci. Good bye February, hello March!
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