Busy day

Last Saturday I was going to baby sit in the evening (the dad's bday was on Sunday and they were going out with friends the night before) but ended up not having to so I was out for a while on the other side. Had fun souvenir shopping a little for people on the way up to the Yerebatam Sarnıcı (Basilica Cisteran) and Blue Mosque.

The cistern was really cool with eerie music and lighting in addition to being super dark and wet. The big draw are the 2 medusa heads in the corner- one is upside down and the other sideways. No one's really sure why but agree they were more for practicality (holding up columns) than decorative purposes. There was also a wishing pool where I threw in a penny! Oh yeah there's also a cafe near the exit- TOTALLY reminds me of the restaurant inside the Pirates of the Caribbean ride at Disneyland!

It was a really nice day so I took some nice pics of the outsides of Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque. Went into the Blue Mosque after waiting for prayer to finish. Wrapped my head along with other women but several did not and no one seemed to care- the wrap kept falling off though! It was really pretty inside and if I were religious, I bet it's really cool praying there.

Most places I've gone have had modern toilets and were free but I went to a public one today and had to pay 1 YTL and squat and use my own TP- but it's ok cuz I had some and am used to squat ones from Taiwan! Some ladies outside were debating whether or not to go in because they weren't sure if it was clean or dirty (more on the clean side I told them) and also because of the squat factor haha. I think this guy got upset because he started talking to me and I ignored him and he started explaining how Turkish people like to chat with visitors but I just said uh huh and walked away haha.

Headed over to the other European side and went up to Galata Tower- close to sunset! Such great views. Above is the bridge connecting the European and Asian side, the view towards where I live Kadiköy, and inland by the 2 European sides. A bit crowded and it said to go in one direction but some people didn't argh. There's a restaurant on that top floor too but I read it's expensive. Then proceeded to Taksim Square since I didn't see much last time (even though it was getting dark and it's not like I could see the park there). Pics of towards the historical sites and bridge where all the fisherman hang out.

Ended up shopping a bit for myself (a few more clothes) and got dessert for dinner!! Went to a place my guide book recommended called Saray. Got baked rice pudding (firinda sutlac)- it was cold but the top was chocolate-carmely and so good and some baklava (wanted pistachios but got walnuts- oh well still good). Pics of Galata Tower, Topkapı Palace, and Aya Sofya and Blue Mosque.

I didn't see any dolmuşes near Taksim (although I know they go there) so I walked back and took the Tünel to the bridge and then to the ferries but I ended up missing the last one! I freaked out a bit and stupidly didn't have the timetable with me of all the ferries. I went to the info booth at the train station which was closed but I asked the guys about Kadiköy (which I had a feeling and was correct that they thought I said Karaköy). I could have taken the train I think back or a ferry from another part of town but hopped on the metro he suggested and got back over the bridge- which is towards the direction I wanted I guess. I was debating whether to go back to Taksim but ended up walking a bit and grabbing a taxi- which wasn't too expensive but expensive enough and the guy and I couldn't really understand each other even though we tried to talk and he was a bit too friendly. But it was nice seeing the city at night and going over the bridge (which was added to the cost of the taxi ride). Had him drop me off the stadium so I could save some dough and walked the rest of the way- stopping to get a bottle of beer and some cereal at the store! Below the seafood resturants under the bridge and going across to the Asian side.

Near the apartment

Last Thursday had a late lunch at a cafe across the street called Marmaris Büfe. Got a pide döner (pide is the bread and döner is like meatball) and was surprised to find french fries in addition to the kinda shredded meat and tomatoes I expected- hmm but it was good as well as the pita like bread it came in. Kinda looked like a pita too. I sat upstairs and people watched and read my book. There were buzzer like things on the tables to call a waiter over- pretty smart since they were all downstairs. I walked around the area near the apartment and saw a pet store with some cute but rambuctious puppies- some labs and golden retrievers it looked like. There were way more stores than I imagined in the area- some you would totally miss if you weren't looking like a sort undergroundish cafe. Saw a really pretty mostly wedding cake store!



It's pretty funny how drivers like to honk so much here- like at home I usually only honk if I'm really upset or something but waiting for Mert's bus stop and walking down to Kadiköy I notice people sure honk at any opportunity! If they are stopped for 5 seconds they will start honking and sometimes even at ambulances? I've seen cars not get out of the way so the ambulance honks and the other cars honk back but don't really move out of the way. And pedestrians jay walk- for me only if it's clear- but some people walk totally when it's not the right timing and the cars honk and the people yell back at the cars- even though they totally should not be walking at that time.



Pretty much everyone gets water delivered to their house- it's funny seeing the delivery guys cuz they have maybe 4 bottles strapped onto their scooter/motorcycles and it looks precarious because they are kinda heavy. A postal delivery guy came by one time and needed some ID from me and signatures (pretty funny cuz we couldn't communicate but he pulled out his ID)- it turned out fine though.



Oh and tried a fruit called quince- really odd because it's not juicy at all but looks similar to an apple or pear and you imagine it would be. The only thing I've had that I don't care for is beef tongue- it was paper thin and I probably wouldn't have thought anything of it, but the family told me what it was and that's all I could think about when I was eating it! I've also had I think it's called chee kufta which is pretty much high quality squashed raw meatballs with some herbs and spices- a little weirded out at first but it's not bad I don't eat too much of it at a time. In addition to simit stands everywhere, there are also roasted chestnut stands (on an open fire haha- well not fire but stove contraption).

The European Side & Inauguration

Headed to the other other side (the northern, more European, European side). This area is where the Europeans settled back in the day and the architecture and culture reflects that. Many of the consulates are over here. Got my akbil refilled and walked down to the ferries.

Took the ferry and then walked across the bridge to get to Galata passing tons of fishermen and a few fisherwomen and above a ton of seafood restaurants. It was a really nice day- actually has been in the 50s and sunny lately. I actually got too hot for my jacket today walking around! Found the Tünel underground which is like a 3 minute ride up and down the hill past the Galata Tower. I was actually thinking of walking but it looked much farther in person than I imagined so I am glad I found the mini metro!

I was going to get lunch at a place called Four Seasons (not related to the hotel) on the other side but didn't see it and also probably missed the lunch time. Read from my guidebook they have great set lunches at 8YTL- will have to find it sometime. Saw jellyfish in the water!

Walked through this street with all musical stores- too bad I can't play anything. Ended up by Galata Tower but didn't go up today- I believe you can head to the very top and take in the great views. Went back towards Beyoğlu and ate at a simit cafe- got a simit sandwich and a deserty thing that looked like a simit. I've actually seen the simit stand guys slice the simits in half lengthwise and put I think cream cheese and a chocolate spread on them like a bagel so maybe they are more of a cross between a pretzel and bagel (as opposed to just a pretzel like I had first said). People watched and then hopped on the antique tram that goes along the famous İstiklal Caddesi- said to be like Las Ramblas in Barcelona which agree with but it seemed more organized and easier to navigate. Tons of shops, restaurants, cafes, bakeries, banks, movie theaters, and passed by the Galatasaray School which is a very distinguished high school primarily taught in French and Turkish- there is a univeristy too I think in the same area. The side streets are full of things too.

We finally got off at the end- Taksim Square. I didn't stay long as I had to get back to pick up Mert from the bus stop (which I ended up being late by a few minutes and got him on the other side of the street on the route back). Lots of people were out and about- somehow I always seem school kids in their uniforms not in school during the day. This one girl looked really young and was smoking- I was surprised even though lots of people smoke here.

Was able to watch a bit of the inauguration Tuesday night- so exciting! Thanks goodness for BBC and CNN. I had joined an Istanbul networking group for locals and expats and only last miınute saw there was a big party going on over on the other side tonight the Democrats Abroad would be hosting- darn that would have been fun. Pretty sunset tonight!

Lounging around

Last Sunday, I took the bus towards the seashore at Caddeboston where in the warmer months people go to the beach. I sat at the boardwalk for a bit and people watched but it was chilly so I didn't stay long. I got off the bus further than I wanted (I was going to walk past the shops and cafes in that area) but another time. There's this 3 story Burger King with rooftop seating- one of the nicest BK's I've seen and surprisingly a drive through. I guess not only can you get pizza delivered but fast food like BK, McDonald's, and KFC!

I visited the other major department stoe Boyner and found a really cute purple and black plaid jacket a bıt longer and slimmer than my recently aquired pink one! The sales girls were nice and confirmed how cute it was on me. I found my way into a pub I saw earlier (but didn't know how to get in) because I saw people walk out of an unmarked door and also noticed from the outside it was on the 2nd floor. I was expecting Brits and fish and chips and good beer, but found smokiness, no English speaking people, a cheeseburger with a weird tomato sauce (other than that it was good and the fries too), and an ok Turkish pilsner Efes (but I prefer others). And I miss Habit even though the burger had onions and pickles and all the regular stuff. It was weird- the menu items were in English but the descriptions Turkish. I luckily found a small table by the window to people watch and read my book- Sense and Sensibility which I finished a couple days later.

I wanted to get the check but tea came instead so I drank it which I was thinking of getting anyway. I had thought of seeing a movie (because the Marks & Spencer was across the street) but I don't think anything good was out so I lounged longer at the so-called pub.

I planned on taking the bus back but popped into Mango to look around and got a really cute satiny top and a couple of long sleeved shirts. I walked down the street some more and stopped when I saw people waiting for a bus which happened to be going my way although it was a double decker one and the usual ones I take are not. My akbil finally ran out of money so I will have to refill it!

Kapalı Çarşi- Grand Bazaar

As you can see I am catching up on my blogging! Last Saturday I prepared myself for the Covered Bazaar as I read it's overwhelming and difficult to navigate through (something like 60 streets). Luckily I wasn't planning on buying anything in particular so I had no set course. It was kinda sunny but still chilly. I ended up going on odd backstreets to get there- seems like that happens a lot with me and I bet people wonder what the heck I am doing haha- and finally turned toward the main tourist road to find the entrance. I pretended not to know English to this guy asking if I've gone to the Grand Bazaar yet and I did a few times throughout the day but it's kind of difficult because I totally know what they're saying but I have to keep a straight, confused face.

I got shown a room full of furs and leathers (does it look like I can afford that stuff?), walked through a small silver section, a big gold area (the gold was blinding and so yellow), and found the middle Old Bazaar (Iç Bedesten) where in the past the most precious items were sold because that area could be locked up (not so anymore). I ended up talking to some guys who wanted to be my friend and hang out later and take a picture but I bowed out. I thought I was ready but oh my gosh everyone was wanting to make friends and show me their products and most people were very polite saying excuse me, may I help you, where are you from, etc. I kind of feel bad ignoring them or just smiling but if I stopped everytime, I would get nowhere! Everyone seemed to think I was Korean or Japanese and I sometimes overhear people talking about what nationality I am. Sometimes I think people get the impression I'm from China and not American (like in Spain) but no one gets weirded out when I do say I'm American- usually they are more curious as to what my background is though.

I think where I came in wasn't really the main entrance and for some reason I didn't think there would be so many ways to get in and out of that place. I needed a little break so I headed out and wandered around the stalls surrounding the Grand Bazaar but outside (wonder how you get to set up shop inside). I wandered in and out of the bazaar several times, some of the time actually trying to leave the area haha. One time I walked through this huge crowd on what seemed like a major side street and found I was walking more northwest towards Fatih when I wanted to go east towards the Aya Sofya/Blue Mosque or ferries so I turned around and somehow ended up in the Spice Bazaar which is near the ferry buildings- yay!

It smelled really good in the Mısır Çarşısı or Egyptian Bazaar. I noticed at the apartment they have a lot of spices, many of which I am unfamiliar with but the cabinet where they are stored smells really good too. It was really cool to walk through there although I hear the spices are overpriced. I was surprised to see non-edible things being sold too like linens. Unfortunately I didn't want to be more touristy than apparently I already was so I didn't take any pictures but I will likely head back and take some.

I saw more crowds at the stalls outside so I figured that's where the best ones were. The first one I almost stopped at was really crowded and in a busy area and mostly spices and dried fruits so I really wouldn't know what to get but the one I did stop at I saw lokum or Turkish delight and got some with pistachios! Yummy! Wasn't too sweet either I think because of the pistachios- I liked it!

I also walked through a busy fish market (makes sense cuz it was right by the water) with some cheese stalls too. Reminded me of buying cheese in Spain (I think I prefer Western European cheeses more- here it tends to be a fetay one which I don't like anyway and a mozerellay one which is nothing special).

I picked up a map at the train station on my way home. It got cold and the tea on the ferry didn't help much. Here's what the ferry looks like. I walked home and then took the stairs up (8 flights!). I will be in great shape by the time I leave! I can't believe I live in cold weather right now- I love the sun and being able to wear sandals and no jacket. It hasn't been that bad (I think the first week was the coldest- no snow since then) and it hasn't rained that much but I'm still proud of myself for surviving the cold :)

Shopping Mall & Movie

Last Wednesday I headed to the local mall Tepe Nautilus but unfortunately the buses don't run straight there (I think you have to switch somewhere) and dolmuşes don't really head that way so I took a taxi which was quick and not too expensive. The mall is pretty large and the top floor is all cafes and restaurants. I saw Vıcky Cristina Barcelona and the theater was really nice! I feel bad the ticket and concession guys were talking to me but I had no idea what they were saying so I just smiled and bought my stuff. The seats were really spacious and almost reclined a little and I feel like are cleaner than movie theaters in the US (like I didn't notice gum stuck everywhere). And this theater had the rows and seats labelled unlike the other one so it was easier to find my seat! The movie made me think of my short time in Barcelona and how much I liked it- made me want to go back! Scarlett Johansson's character doesn't know what she wants in the beginning and still doesn't at the end, but knows what she doesn't which is how I feel too. And the other girl, her friend, doubts her marriage before it's even official and then goes on pretending like everything's fine and the older lady fell out of love with her husband but doesn't feel like she can say anything or divorce him (I kinda fear both). It wasn't one of those feel good movies although I did like it. Afterwards though, I went shopping :)

I picked up a cute warm pink and brown plaid jacket and a cute but spacious brown bag and then at Zara an off-shoulder top for the spring and a grey striped sweater for now. I tried on some really cute dresses with Molly's wedding in mind but I think they were a little fancier than I what I am imagining I want.

Took a taxi back but caught it further down than where the first cabby dropped me off. I should have had the guy just stop by the crosswalk but he went around the block to drop me off on the right side of the street, but not even that close which I thinks defeats the purpose of a taxi and it had started raining and I wasn't wearing the most comfy shoes. Oh well.

The mom went out of town a few days for a trade show and so we will have dinner at the dad's parents house while she is gone. Both his mom and the parents are pretty good cooks. One of the nights I met Emre's cousin who was really funny and his maternal grandma- she was really cute and reminded me a bit of my grandma on my mom's side too. The parents got new phones so they are letting me use an old one for emergencies and to call me about picking up Mert (the bus driver calls the parents when he's getting close to the stop) which is really nice.

There's this TV show we always watch at the grandparents' house that's basically Wheel of Fortune but 10 times longer and with a tiny wheel. In the beginning they go to various small towns and pick these families (always seem to be huge families and in rural areas) and have them play some games for prizes. Then the regular contestants play but there's a ton of dance breaks- like if someone lands on certain spots they will either dance for a bit where they are or for the spot where you can go pick out various electronics in 30 seconds, the contestants go up where the Vanna White equivalent is (much skanier though and everytime it's a different girl) and dance and the host dances with women from the audience for like 10 minutes. And the host will sometimes just dance randomly too or lie down on the podium in front of the contestants- it's such a weird show! I laugh everytime I watch it.

Mert will be on winter break for 2 weeks starting the end of the month but they will be out of town during that second week and I plan on going to see my friend Marie in Vienna and meet her boyfriend (and belatedly celebrate my bday)! I'm excited to see her because she's been doing grad school in Sydney for almost the last year and I miss her and I can't wait to meet the bf!

Market & Food

Last Monday I popped into the local grocery store called Migros and browsed around. Really wanted peanut butter but only saw one American one but didn't get it because of that whole PB scare. They have a Nutella like spread though which is really good. I found this snack that's like a Twix but round and about the size of a cookie- really good! And there's these little muffins either filled with a little bit of chocolate filling or caramel (I've only had the caramel- yum!). The cashiers have seats which I think is nice and you bag yourself. We had mantı for dinner which is mince stuffed ravioli topped with garlicy yogurt and chili oil- reminded me of Italian more than Turkish food but it was good. They were doughy mmmm. I can make Turkish coffee and tea now too!

Lazy Sunday

The next day I decided to go to an early evening showing of Australia. I took the bus down along the shore and walked inland to get to Bağdat Street. I went further up than necessary on the bus so I slowly walked towards the movie theater and window shopped and people watched on my way. I actually didn't realize the theater was on the top level of the department store Marks & Spencer so I went on the side street and accidently opened an employee door who pointed around the corner. I thought he meant out front or the other side and gave up and decided to go inside and look around- but to my surprise I found the theater ha! I know some countries you pick your seat but I hadn't expected it here; I just knew there was about a 10 minute intermisson in the middle of the movie. It's weird because the movie just stops and starts, but I always have to use the bathroom during the movie so I did and it's assigned seating so you won't lose your seat! The ticket price was comprable to the US but the concessions I feel were way cheaper- about $3 for a small popcorn and bottle of water. The seats were comfy, the screen seemed really wide, stadium seating, and really good booming sound. Liked the movie!

Topkapı Palace & Archeology Museum

Since it seemed like a nice day 2 Saturdays ago, I decided to head to the mostly outdoor Topkapı Palace which was the residence of the Ottoman sultans for like 200 years. After that time, they moved down along the Bosporous into the European style Dolmabahçe Palace. There is a big park surrounding it which I didn't explore- Gülhane Park. It ended up getting quite chilly but luckily I was prepared with gloves, a scarf, and an extra sweatshirt! I also luckily avoided the main tourist area I had been at before and got to the entrance the back way by the archeology museum.

There are a lot of birds and they seem to follow the ferry boats and people love feeding them! There was a square I had to cross by the ferry buildings one time that had a TON of pigeons just hanging around while people fed them and they were all flapping about- I was scared walking through them but made it (I have an odd fear that they will claw my eyes out and poop all over me). Anyways, at the palace there seemed to be a lot of people buying tickets and hanging around, but once walking around inside and looking and the indoor displays, it wasn't bad at all. Where the ticket booth is is actually the first courtyard of the palace which you're supposed to get through using the Imperial Gate; to get any further you have to buy a ticket. I picked up an audio tour and started my way. Some of the things the audio commented on was funny because it was really quite self explanatory or the plaque next to the display said the exact same thing- sometimes more. But it was helpful to guide me around.

Anyways, I proceed through the Middle Gate to the second courtyard. They used to keep gazelle and peacocks here- not anymore but I could picture it. The main purpose of this area was for the sultan to dispense justice and hold audience and impress foreign visitors. The first stop was the kitchen area (you can make out the chimmneys from afar). Now it houses precious Chinese and Far East porcelain which was brought in along the silk route (both blue and white and celadon porcelain). The audio guide mentioned a silver display but that area was closed. This courtyard also has the entrance to the Harem, stables, bakery, the Tower of Justice, and the Divan where the councilmen held meetings (below the tower- picture of inside of Divan). Passing through the Gate of Felicity (below) I moved onto the third courtyard which is now considered the more private inner courts.

The best thing I liked here was the Imperial Treasury where they had jewels and bejeweled items on display. This area used to be baths- there's a round raised area in the middle and slits in the ceiling to let in light (like the picture but it's from the harem). And the heaters were on so it was a nice break from the cold! There are 4 rooms- the major items were the Topkapı Dagger (covered in diamonds, 3 huge emeralds, and a watch at the base of the handle), the 86 carat Spoonmaker's Diamond (apparently got sold for 3 spoons because no one thought it was worth anything), and Suleiman the Magnificent's sword (totally did a report on him in middle school). There were ceremonial thrones- one mostly all gold, one ebony and ivory, others covered in jewels; some were made especially for the newborn sons (not daughters). There was chain mail of course covered in jewels and gold and a set of candlesticks almost as tall as I am covered in diamonds. I'm surprised the good condition everything was in- only a few items had noticeably missing jewels. They also had a clothing display with robe like pieces that reminded me of kimonos. Apparently they were made to be larger so the sultans would appear larger haha men.

Another interesing thing in this courtyard is the display of holy relics. I'm not religious but it's cool I'm sure if you are because they have on display various items that belonged to Prophet Mohammed including hair from his beard and some teeth. Some other items from other prophets and important religious figures could be seen- they even have Moses' apparent staff. I could hear something over the loudspeakers and thought it was just a recording but as I moved through the rooms I came to this small area where an imam (religious guide) was reciting from the Koran and it had screens set up of what he was reading and an English translation which I thought was interesting. I felt weird staying there for too long and reading so I moved on. I read online that an imam has been reciting from the Koran continually for the past 500 years- wow. I also saw potraits of all the past sultans in another warm room.

The last courtyard was really pretty as you had great views and you could imagine the lush garden and trickling fountains and pool. I could see the yellow balloon thing by Kadiköy, the Bosporous Bridge connecting European and Asian Turkey, and the other side of the Golden Horn. There was this golden gazebo like structure that overlooked the other side of the Golden Horn where the sultan broke his ramadan fast. A lot of the buildings in this courtyard are newer. There are various kiosks and a circumcision room, all beautifully tiled from floor to ceiling inside and out with stained glass windows. I can't believe how excessive everything is sheesh.

The last thing I looked as was the Harem which I unfortunately didn't pick up an audio guide for and it wasn't obvious what was going on! Basically women were kept here including the sultan's concubines (they had a separte entrance and courtyard- right), mother (Valide Sultan- she had her own courtyard), and wives. His children and servants also stayed here. There are hundreds of rooms. The sultan's favorite concubines were kept in a nicer area (below) and when they got pregnant, became more official and moved up.

The Queen Mother had a really high status and many of them had a great influence on their sons- they would advise on various affairs or manipulate their sons for their benefit. The most famous concubine is Roxelana who shook things up and manipulated her hubby. Sultans never married concubines but she married Suleiman the Magnificent who was said to be one of the wisest leaders but I guess was blinded by love. She convinced him to assassinate his Grand Vizir who was his childhood friend and very capable and even his own 2 heirs so that her son who was known as a drunk could inherit the throne (I read that he apparently drowned in a bath after drinking too much champagne haha). Picture of Imperial Hall were the sultan received and entertained.

There is an infamous custom called the Cage that was implemented after fratricide was abolished (killing all your brothers so you would be sultan because the throne was up for grabs by any male heir). The younger brothers were basically under house arrest in the Harem with some concubines (blue building and inside view), removed from the outside world until the elder brother died and another sultan was needed- some stayed in there their whole lives, some committed suicide, and all turned out crazy. I feel like the staff must have been bored because a couple of them talked to me in the Harem and told me what room we were in which was nice.

The last thing I did that day was to visit the archeology museum. It's a combined fee to enter this big area with the Museum of the Orient, Tiled Kiosk with Islamic Art, and the archeology museum (which I was most interested in). Not very many people were there so it was peaceful and nice to slowly walk around. I underestimated the size of the place and took my sweet time by the greek statues and sculptures (my favorite part of the musuem)- so cool to be able to take pictures and be so up close to the pieces. The lighting too just set a really nice mood- I just kept thinking wow this is so cool and how much I liked musuems. I couldn't believe this old lady was touching the statues! Who does that and her companions didn't say anything! I can't remember what all the pieces were but here's Aphrodite and Hermes and some random ones. I can't believe how lifelike and soft these look even thought they're carved out of stone- amazing!

I made my way through the sarcophagus collection, tombstone collection, reliefs and mosaics and since the museum was closing, power walked through the history displays of Istanbul and surrounding areas, and small artifacts and tablets. There's a small courtyard with ruins and it made me wonder if our ruins will look like that too.

On my way back on the ferry I overheard some girls speaking English so I went over to say Hi. Two were from the east coast visiting their friend and the other lives by the Galatasaray soccer stadium and finishing up school and teaching English. I thought since they were coming over that they lived on this side but they were just riding the ferry before the friends went back home. It was nice chatting with them. The sunset was really pretty but it was so crowded and I always make it last minute to the ferry home so I end up outside a lot.

I saw a line after docking and asked the girl if it was for dolmuşes and she said yes but it turned out to be a bus that didn't go to where I wanted- luckily I double checked with the cashier guy but unfortunately I already swiped my akbil- oh well. The only 2 dolmuş stops I know of near the ferries are by the other ferry building or probably more than halfway to the apartment already but I was tired of walking so I got on that one. It was still the same price if I had jumped on the one by the ferry but the guys forgot to give me change until I got out and took the back roads because the main street was jammed so I had to back track because he passed my street already! I should've just walked the whole way but my feet were tired from wearing my spikey boots the day before and being on my feet all day- next time I'll know better to jump on the other dolmuş or just walk all the way!