Topkapı Palace & Archeology Museum

Since it seemed like a nice day 2 Saturdays ago, I decided to head to the mostly outdoor Topkapı Palace which was the residence of the Ottoman sultans for like 200 years. After that time, they moved down along the Bosporous into the European style Dolmabahçe Palace. There is a big park surrounding it which I didn't explore- Gülhane Park. It ended up getting quite chilly but luckily I was prepared with gloves, a scarf, and an extra sweatshirt! I also luckily avoided the main tourist area I had been at before and got to the entrance the back way by the archeology museum.

There are a lot of birds and they seem to follow the ferry boats and people love feeding them! There was a square I had to cross by the ferry buildings one time that had a TON of pigeons just hanging around while people fed them and they were all flapping about- I was scared walking through them but made it (I have an odd fear that they will claw my eyes out and poop all over me). Anyways, at the palace there seemed to be a lot of people buying tickets and hanging around, but once walking around inside and looking and the indoor displays, it wasn't bad at all. Where the ticket booth is is actually the first courtyard of the palace which you're supposed to get through using the Imperial Gate; to get any further you have to buy a ticket. I picked up an audio tour and started my way. Some of the things the audio commented on was funny because it was really quite self explanatory or the plaque next to the display said the exact same thing- sometimes more. But it was helpful to guide me around.

Anyways, I proceed through the Middle Gate to the second courtyard. They used to keep gazelle and peacocks here- not anymore but I could picture it. The main purpose of this area was for the sultan to dispense justice and hold audience and impress foreign visitors. The first stop was the kitchen area (you can make out the chimmneys from afar). Now it houses precious Chinese and Far East porcelain which was brought in along the silk route (both blue and white and celadon porcelain). The audio guide mentioned a silver display but that area was closed. This courtyard also has the entrance to the Harem, stables, bakery, the Tower of Justice, and the Divan where the councilmen held meetings (below the tower- picture of inside of Divan). Passing through the Gate of Felicity (below) I moved onto the third courtyard which is now considered the more private inner courts.

The best thing I liked here was the Imperial Treasury where they had jewels and bejeweled items on display. This area used to be baths- there's a round raised area in the middle and slits in the ceiling to let in light (like the picture but it's from the harem). And the heaters were on so it was a nice break from the cold! There are 4 rooms- the major items were the Topkapı Dagger (covered in diamonds, 3 huge emeralds, and a watch at the base of the handle), the 86 carat Spoonmaker's Diamond (apparently got sold for 3 spoons because no one thought it was worth anything), and Suleiman the Magnificent's sword (totally did a report on him in middle school). There were ceremonial thrones- one mostly all gold, one ebony and ivory, others covered in jewels; some were made especially for the newborn sons (not daughters). There was chain mail of course covered in jewels and gold and a set of candlesticks almost as tall as I am covered in diamonds. I'm surprised the good condition everything was in- only a few items had noticeably missing jewels. They also had a clothing display with robe like pieces that reminded me of kimonos. Apparently they were made to be larger so the sultans would appear larger haha men.

Another interesing thing in this courtyard is the display of holy relics. I'm not religious but it's cool I'm sure if you are because they have on display various items that belonged to Prophet Mohammed including hair from his beard and some teeth. Some other items from other prophets and important religious figures could be seen- they even have Moses' apparent staff. I could hear something over the loudspeakers and thought it was just a recording but as I moved through the rooms I came to this small area where an imam (religious guide) was reciting from the Koran and it had screens set up of what he was reading and an English translation which I thought was interesting. I felt weird staying there for too long and reading so I moved on. I read online that an imam has been reciting from the Koran continually for the past 500 years- wow. I also saw potraits of all the past sultans in another warm room.

The last courtyard was really pretty as you had great views and you could imagine the lush garden and trickling fountains and pool. I could see the yellow balloon thing by Kadiköy, the Bosporous Bridge connecting European and Asian Turkey, and the other side of the Golden Horn. There was this golden gazebo like structure that overlooked the other side of the Golden Horn where the sultan broke his ramadan fast. A lot of the buildings in this courtyard are newer. There are various kiosks and a circumcision room, all beautifully tiled from floor to ceiling inside and out with stained glass windows. I can't believe how excessive everything is sheesh.

The last thing I looked as was the Harem which I unfortunately didn't pick up an audio guide for and it wasn't obvious what was going on! Basically women were kept here including the sultan's concubines (they had a separte entrance and courtyard- right), mother (Valide Sultan- she had her own courtyard), and wives. His children and servants also stayed here. There are hundreds of rooms. The sultan's favorite concubines were kept in a nicer area (below) and when they got pregnant, became more official and moved up.

The Queen Mother had a really high status and many of them had a great influence on their sons- they would advise on various affairs or manipulate their sons for their benefit. The most famous concubine is Roxelana who shook things up and manipulated her hubby. Sultans never married concubines but she married Suleiman the Magnificent who was said to be one of the wisest leaders but I guess was blinded by love. She convinced him to assassinate his Grand Vizir who was his childhood friend and very capable and even his own 2 heirs so that her son who was known as a drunk could inherit the throne (I read that he apparently drowned in a bath after drinking too much champagne haha). Picture of Imperial Hall were the sultan received and entertained.

There is an infamous custom called the Cage that was implemented after fratricide was abolished (killing all your brothers so you would be sultan because the throne was up for grabs by any male heir). The younger brothers were basically under house arrest in the Harem with some concubines (blue building and inside view), removed from the outside world until the elder brother died and another sultan was needed- some stayed in there their whole lives, some committed suicide, and all turned out crazy. I feel like the staff must have been bored because a couple of them talked to me in the Harem and told me what room we were in which was nice.

The last thing I did that day was to visit the archeology museum. It's a combined fee to enter this big area with the Museum of the Orient, Tiled Kiosk with Islamic Art, and the archeology museum (which I was most interested in). Not very many people were there so it was peaceful and nice to slowly walk around. I underestimated the size of the place and took my sweet time by the greek statues and sculptures (my favorite part of the musuem)- so cool to be able to take pictures and be so up close to the pieces. The lighting too just set a really nice mood- I just kept thinking wow this is so cool and how much I liked musuems. I couldn't believe this old lady was touching the statues! Who does that and her companions didn't say anything! I can't remember what all the pieces were but here's Aphrodite and Hermes and some random ones. I can't believe how lifelike and soft these look even thought they're carved out of stone- amazing!

I made my way through the sarcophagus collection, tombstone collection, reliefs and mosaics and since the museum was closing, power walked through the history displays of Istanbul and surrounding areas, and small artifacts and tablets. There's a small courtyard with ruins and it made me wonder if our ruins will look like that too.

On my way back on the ferry I overheard some girls speaking English so I went over to say Hi. Two were from the east coast visiting their friend and the other lives by the Galatasaray soccer stadium and finishing up school and teaching English. I thought since they were coming over that they lived on this side but they were just riding the ferry before the friends went back home. It was nice chatting with them. The sunset was really pretty but it was so crowded and I always make it last minute to the ferry home so I end up outside a lot.

I saw a line after docking and asked the girl if it was for dolmuşes and she said yes but it turned out to be a bus that didn't go to where I wanted- luckily I double checked with the cashier guy but unfortunately I already swiped my akbil- oh well. The only 2 dolmuş stops I know of near the ferries are by the other ferry building or probably more than halfway to the apartment already but I was tired of walking so I got on that one. It was still the same price if I had jumped on the one by the ferry but the guys forgot to give me change until I got out and took the back roads because the main street was jammed so I had to back track because he passed my street already! I should've just walked the whole way but my feet were tired from wearing my spikey boots the day before and being on my feet all day- next time I'll know better to jump on the other dolmuş or just walk all the way!